What is the best bike tool kit for travelling with your panniers? What tools do you take on a long tour? We are trying to shade some lights on the mystery by telling you about our favourite items after over 5000 miles of travelling and endurance.
The best tool kit is the one you use. That is especially valuable if you are planning to travel on your bike and your bags or panniers fully laden. Every pound helps, but also you have to make the decision based on how valuable the object is and the potential usage, and its weight. In other words, we must be practical if we want to be able to ride up the hill.
When we travel, no matter if it is for the weekend or a couple of years, we need to carry some tools to be able to maintain our bicycles whilst on the road, and we feel comfortable using them. Spot checks are even more necessary when you travel with a heavily loaded bicycle, as the weight stresses more the parts. Also, there is more usage, so I recommend getting your hands dirty once a week to avoid future surprises that might alienate your ride.
Regardless, shit happens when you least expect it, which is why I carry the things I do and this is the kit I carry to cope with it.
- Bike pump
- A small bottle of wax chain lube
- Emergency Spokes
- Topeak mini 20-pro multi-tool
- Hex wrench set
- A traditional patch kit for tubes
- Tire levers
- Zip ties
- Spare inner tubes
- Chain links
- Chain link removing pliers
- Brake pads
- Extra cleat
- Presta valve adapter
- Various sizes of bolts (4-6mm)
- Spare brake cable
- Spare gear cable
I am going to review each item of my kit separately to give you a better understanding of how is it working for us. Also, I have picked the brand I have had better results for the longest time on the items on this list.
Topeak Turbo Morph bike pumphttps://amzn.to/3IKTpnR
I have used many portable air pumps in my life, but this one is like having a workshop track pump that you can take with you on your frame. It’s also quite fast, and the fact that you can activate it whilst the pump is standing – like a hand pump – doesn’t make it very hard when inflating the tyre to the maximum capacity.
It comes with a gauge you can deploy to measure the tyre pressure, something that, whilst not essential, is reassuring, as you would like to travel with the maximum tyre pressure recommended by the manufacturer when heavy laden, but not to overdo it so the tyre will explode.
It weighs 237g, which doesn´t make it the lightest travel air pump, but it’s worth it.
Also, the length is 360mm, strokes to 35psi: 50
Overall, this is very well made with well-considered details like the rubberised grip and locking handle so it wouldn’t move when you have it attached to the frame. This is our favourite, and when you’re making your panniers or going out for the day, make sure to pack this one. It won´t let you down!
Pro Gold Pro Link Chain Lube
This bike lube is easily the best bike lube we have ever used. It differs from traditional dry lubes in that it retains a slight ‘oily’ feel. It goes on very thin too, as ProLink is almost watery, so it needs careful application and ideally a cloth to catch overspill.
It doesn’t last long on properly gritty, wet rides – which is fair enough – but it’s more tenacious than others I’ve used lately. It’s also proved just as effective on long, gravelly rides where conditions are less extreme, but the chain is spun more.
It requires some maintenance and it’s best to follow the instructions on how to apply it for optimal results, but in my experience, it’s well worth the effort.
Emergency Spokes: DT SWISS Alpine III silver Tandem spokes
These are possibly the strongest spokes available, making them suitable for use in extreme off-road conditions, tandems, and heavily laden bikes. I haven’t had any problems with the spokes, even though we ride through many dirt roads or pothole grade roads in Eastern Europe and Asia.
Spokes vary lengths for tandem or heavy touring.
The 13 / 15 / 14 gauge triple butted spoke is 1.8 mm thick in the centre to save weight, 2 mm thick at the rim end to use standard size nipples, and 2.34 mm thick at the hub end where the greatest strength is needed
These spokes are made from X5 stainless steel, containing chrome for rust resistance and nickel for strength.
Multi-tool: Topeak mini 20-pro multi-tool
This is a quite good multi-tool to have. It features 23 total functions packed into a compact and reasonably lightweight, 153g, multi-tool that comes in a neoprene storage case.
These are a lot of functions, and it has you covered for virtually every adjustment and simple fix you may encounter while out on the road.
Features:
-It comes with virtually every hex size you’ll ever use, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, and 10mm.
The 2mm hex is L-shaped, and the 10mm is a removable head that fits on top of the 8mm.
– It has Torx 10 and Torx 25 bits
– Both flathead and #2 Phillips head screwdrivers.
– It’s got a removable chain breaker that has four sizes of spoke wrenches, and a 3mm hex head integrated into it for tightening the tool should you ever need to.
– They’ve even added a stainless steel wire chain hook on the side of the chain breaker to hold your chain together while you’re trying to work on it.
– Add to that an emergency metal tire lever and a hardened steel bottle opener with a spoke holder, and you’re covered for everything from repairing a broken chain to cracking a beer and everything in between.
Hex wrench set: Park Tool PH-1 Hex Wrench Set
In addition to the multi-tool, I always carry, together with my wife, a Hex wrench set. We found out this set to be our favourite. This is a most unique set where the wrenches have built-in “spinners,” which the manufacturer calls “speed bearings” for quick removal of long hex screws.
It might be easier to think of it as a short sleeve over the long shaft of the wrench. Once the screw is broken loose, you can hold the sleeve with one hand, while spinning the handle of the wrench with a finger of the other hand (similar to spinning a star wrench used for wheel lug nuts). All the wrenches have ball ends on the long shaft and chamfered ends on the short shaft. The handles are probably the most comfortable on the market as they are well fitted to the hand while a wall-hanging holder keeps your tools organized.
A traditional patch kit for tubes: Rema Tip Top TT02 Touring
Because the inevitable tends to happen, we need to be prepared. I always carry in my kit both spare tubes and a traditional kit of patches. Usually, if I have a puncture I would swap the inner tube for a completely new one, (always checking for debris inside the tyre to avoid damage to the new inner tube) and mend the old inner tube at night whilst in the tent.
I remember during a trip to Norway that was my routine for a week. Getting a flat, swapping the tubes, mending at night, getting a flat, swapping, mending… It was frustrating. Although then I realised I was wrongly putting all the weight at the back, so the back wheel was under a lot of stress over a technical gravel route. It’s like I was asking for it!
From all the patches that I have tested over the years, from cheap ones to more pricey ones, the Rema Tip Top TT02 Touring are my favourites. They have double scalloped edges to ensure excellent bonding, and that is something you need, as sometimes when the patches are too old or not very good quality, they don’t tend to hold very well on the edges.
If you’ve ever wondered what the little latex straw is for, the answer is repairing the inside of your valve cores.
Tire levers: Pedro´s tyre levers
Even though the multi-tool has a tire lever that does the job, we carry a proper set of tyre levers.
Any tyre lever would do the job. I have even used a spoon (although I don’t recommend it). I am now using Pedro´s tyre levers and they seem very smooth and comfortable. I have never thought there would be differences on a tyre lever. Well, I was wrong, there are little things that make your life a little easier.
The chisel-shaped tip has a large radius, which is easy to scoop under the tyre bead. Rounded edges and a slippery finish make it easy to slide the tyre off the rim with a single lever. This is especially appreciated when you use anti-puncture tires, which walls are especially extra hardened to make the tyre more robust.
The material is a resin that feels quite sturdy. They have a relatively deep section and wide tip.
This tool comes with a lifetime warranty, a fact that makes you think when you have to choose.
Zip Ties
They are also known as cable ties, hose ties, or Ty-Rap if you go by the brand. They are quick fasteners made for holding things together. They are quite low cost, so I recommend you to include them in your kit. You can hold anything that breaks on your bike or in your kit quite easily. They are one of my favourite parts of my kit.
Spare inner tubes: Schwalbe inner tubes
These are some of the best tubes we could find and also the ones we currently have inside the tyres. They are made of high-quality butyl rubber tubes and have a strong rolling resistance against punctures, which is of particular importance on diverse terrain.
Also, the Presta valve is made of metal, and it seems very good quality, as usual, it doesn´t bend easily when strength is applied to it. With the Skyscape metal valve caps, you’re more likely to retain the right amount of air pressure during your ride and less likely to re-inflate. regularly
Make sure to pick the correct size in the box, but the 28” inner tubes have a width that can safely expand to fit all the tire widths mentioned on the box without causing strain on the tube or an increased risk of a flat tire.
Chain links
A chain is made up of a series of interlinking and alternating wide and narrow plates. Each plate is held together with a pin, or rivet, and the inner links of the chain articulate around this connecting point. A quick link works by replacing one “outer” chain link with a pair of slotted interlocking outer plates that feature permanently set pins. The force applied to a chain pulls these two opposing links into a closed position. Squeezing the links together (with enough force) will see the link come undone, which is why it’s also commonly called a quick release chain link.
Unlike joining a chain with a chain pin and a chain breaker, chain links, or master links offer a solution that’s more resistant to human error. Similarly, quick links open up the possibilities of cleaning (or lubricating) the chain off the bike, whereas breaking a chain by driving out a pin creates a weak spot, and so chains installed with a pin are best left on until worn (or install a master link!).
Chain link removing pliers: Park Tool MLP-1.2
As we saw before, many modern derailleur chains use a “master link” (also known as a “quick link” or “power link”) that allows the chain to be installed and removed without driving out a rivet. This is the first time I´m using a chain removing pliers, but it´s a revelation and much easier than removing the pin only.
MLP-1.2 Master Link Pliers make the removal and replacement of these master links quick and effortless. Simply insert the specially sized jaws into the master link. Then squeeze the handles to open or pull the handles to close the link. It is compatible with 5-to-12-speed derailleur chains that use a master link. Dace uses a 10-speed derailleur chain, whilst I use a 9 speed one on my bike.
Brake pads
When your brake pads are worn past a certain point – there may be wearing grooves or other indicators on the pads to tell you their time is up – it’s time to invest in a new set. However, to replace your pads you will need to take into account the type of brakes you are using as well as additional factors including riding conditions, rim type (if using rim brakes) and brake manufacturer. It’s also worth noting that users of rim brakes should periodically inspect their rims for wear, as the grinding effect of brake pads and road grit will slowly erode the metal surface, to the point where new rims or wheels may be required.
We are currently using mechanical disc brakes in both of our bikes. Dace is using TRP Spectre C on her Genesis Tour de Fer and I´m using the old classic Avid BB7 on my custom-built Genesis Vagabond.
Disc brake pads are sold in pairs, with one pair fitting into a single brake calliper (normally each pair also includes a replacement retention spring which is necessary to hold the pads in place). The majority are designed to fit specific callipers, so you will need to buy a pair that is compatible with the make and model of your brake calliper/system.
After this, the choice is between the two main types of pad –- organic or synthetic.
Organic pads
Organic pads – also referred to as ‘resin’ pads – are made from high-density ceramic and have a softer compound than metallic sintered pads. Organic pads generally provide better stopping power and heat dissipation, which means that they are slower to heat up and so are advisable for use in braking systems with a low boiling point. However organic pads can wear out quicker in wet and gritty conditions.
Sintered pads
Also referred to as ‘metallic’ pads, these use a compound with added metal content – usually copper shavings. This makes them noisier, and they heat up faster, but in wet conditions they last far, far longer than organic pads.
Ultimately your choice may depend on the prevalent conditions you ride in, with sintered pads advisable for the typical wet/mixed weather as they last longer unless you have no problem changing your pads often. We prefer organic pads as per the bigger stopping power. We are travelling with 60kg of luggage, and if you add the human sitting on the top of the saddle, you need good stopping power when going down the hill.
We like the SwissStop Disc Brake pads for our bikes. We have been trialling them for over 5000 miles (and still counting) cycling through the north part of Europe and the Scandinavian countries and they are great
In general, if there is less than 1.5mm of braking surface on your disc pads, it’s time for a replacement. Changing your pads is generally a pretty simple job that can be done anywhere you are– check YouTube or your brake manufacturer’s website for a tutorial. It’s also worth noting that new pads will have to be ‘bedded in’ when you change them. This means spending a few minutes braking hard (in a safe, traffic-free environment) to lay down a thin layer of transfer film onto the rotor surface. Properly bedded-in brakes will ensure smoother breaking down the line and minimise brake judder.
On the last note, do not forget to check the compatibility of the pads with your disc brakes, as some of them work differently. This information will always be written on the box or in the characteristics of the product.
Spare brake cable
Over time and use cables may become stretched, frayed or otherwise damaged requiring their replacement.
While brake and gear inner cables are nominally similar, the housings are different – brake cables use conventional ‘helical’ housing which consists of a tightly-wrapped helix of steel wire lined on both inside and outside by a plastic coating.
When buying brake cables you will have the option of buying either the cable inner only or a full cable kit with housing. The former may do fine if you are simply replacing a broken cable but in the event of an overall upgrade or the old housing being bent/damaged (which will affect cable performance), you may need a full kit.
Basic brake cables are inexpensive but higher-budget cables and housings will add features such as improved corrosion resistance and friction-reducing coatings on the inner wire and housing. They can be a relatively inexpensive performance upgrade to boost the braking power of your bike.
We always carry a spare brake cable as a must in our tools kit, just in case it snaps or gets damaged.
Spare gear cable
Gear cables stretch through use and will need replacing from time to time. Outer cables tend to get dirty over time, so will also need replacing if your gear shifting is a little sticky.
Gear cable outers use a different, ‘compressionless’ housing which because it doesn’t change its effective length when bent is more suitable for indexed gearing systems where accurate cable pull is essential.
Gear cable housing (compressionless) is not as strong as standard helical housing and should not be used for brake cables as the forces involved could cause it to rupture and burst.
Like with the brake cables, you have the option of buying the full set or only the inner cable.
After riding your new bike for a while, you might notice that your gears don’t work as smoothly as they did when you first bought it. This is usually because the gear cable has stretched slightly, so the gears are not indexed properly and don’t change smoothly.
As long as there is no damage to the derailleurs or cables, it is very easy to re-index your gears to get them changing smoothly again. Some riders can do this as they ride along, but it’s best to do it on a bike stand the first time until you are familiar with the process.
We always carry a spare gear cable in our tool kit, just in case the ride is not smooth and we have to change it and re-index our gears.
Presta valve adapter
Even the best travel pump wouldn´t be as good and effortless as the air pump of a gas station. Especially if it´s free to use, which, at the moment is being our experience.
A friend of mine who has a great deal of experience cycling through most of the world gave me the hint. “Why not take advantage of a pressure pump from the gas station when you pass through it?” If only we would have the advantage of the universality of a Schrader valve… oh wait! We can!
Since then I carry an adapter so I can check the pressure of my tires every couple of days or (whenever I stop in a gas station) and have a quick check on both of the bikes effortlessly
You can get them very cheap, they are as light as a coin, and they serve us quite well. You can check them here.
What´s next?
Now that you have the tools you need for a bikés trip, Why don´t you check our take on 11 steps to clean your bike and maintain it?
Let us know what do you think
